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In the Hualapai Hilltop parking lot, perched on top of the Grand Canyon’s southwest rim, the sun lowers into a sliver and bathes the canyon floor in soft, orange light. I shuffle over to a cliff, look down at the drop, and look up at the stars. This is vast and mysterious Havasupai Indian Tribe Land; 188,777 acres of it with 600-something inhabitants, depending on who you ask. It’s a magnificent place, and I’m happy to be here with three of my best friends.